My recent trip to Chambal, which is home to many rebels over the years. What better place to bring these stories alive than in a heritage safari lodge set in the lap to Chambal itself. The surrounding country is ancient. Dry and arid in parts, the area has bursts of greenery where the Chambal River and the nearby Yamuna flow. The River and the lack of industrial development in the region have ensured rich biodiversity with the Gangetic River dolphin, gharials and marsh crocodiles making their home in the Chambal’s waters. Hundreds of species of birds too can be found in the National Chambal Sanctuary, a protected area that covers a 400km stretch of the Chambal River and between one- and six-kilometers swathe of ravines on either side.

The Mela Kothi is the ideal place to stay, from where we forayed into the National Chambal Sanctuary. The owners, who were descendants of the zamindaars who built the lodge, arranged for boat, camel and jeep safaris into the protected zone and excursions to the nearby heritage towns, temples and villages.

The Lodge, open only from October to April, is a thing of beauty, and I love to visit it every year. The rooms were large and airy, bright and comfortable furniture and furnishings, and most have verandahs attached.